Top 5 Beginner Trad Leads in the Smoke Bluffs
The Smoke Bluffs are Squamish's friendly neighbourhood crag — short approaches, dense route concentration, and plenty of well-protected moderates. If you're moving from top-roping to leading trad, these five lines are solid first-lead candidates.
1. Gibbons (5.8)
At nearby Murrin Park but worth the short drive — straightforward cracks and great gear. Full guide →
2. Apron Strings (5.10a)
Two pitches of quality granite; pitch one is the money lead for newer trad climbers. Full guide →
3. Banana Peel (5.7)
Classic slab on the Apron approach — run it out carefully and trust your feet on the lower angle stone.
4. Penny Lane (5.9)
Well-travelled corner and crack line with frequent stances to place gear and assess the next move.
5. Cruel Shoes (5.10a)
Technical face climbing with intermittent cracks — a step up in difficulty once you're comfortable on 5.8–5.9.